La Rive Gauche
The Bohemian spirit of Paris
The left bank of the Seine reveals the most avant-garde side of the French capital. Although Matisse and Hemingway no longer roam La Rive Gauche, its artistic spirit lives on.
Elena Dijour / Shutterstock.com
Elena Dijour / Shutterstock.com
Timeless charm
Of course the most famous landmark on the left bank is the Eiffel Tower. But the biggest attraction of this part of the city is less tangible. For many residents and visitors, La Rive Gauche is synonymous with a time at the beginning of the 20th century when world-famous writers, painters, poets and other artistic eccentrics packed the streets and cafés south of the river. While the other side of the Seine has embraced modernity, the left bank has been able to hang on to some of its Bohemian charm. Experience it for yourself on a stroll along these 6 highlights of Rive Gauche.
Angelita Niedziejko
Artistic coffee
Le Café de Flore
Those who love to start the day with a good cup of coffee may wish to visit Le Café de Flore. In business since 1880, the café is named after a statue of the Roman goddess Flora that used to be on the other side of the boulevard. It made a name for itself as the literary café where Pablo Picasso and the power couple of philosophy, Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre, regularly met to raise a glass.
Glenn Harper / Alamy Stock Photo
The patio is still a great spot for celebrity spotting. The opulent art deco interior with red velvet, mahogany and mirrored glass has hardly changed since its opening.
Marc Dantan
Parisian Days
gary yim / Shutterstock.com
Bildarchiv Monheim GmbH / Alamy Stock Photo
The streets around the university became known as the Quartier Latin, the famous student district of Paris. This is where the fuse of the powder keg was lit during the notorious student protests of 1968. Be sure to peek inside the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, which has been honing brilliant minds for more than 70 years. Even if you don’t read a word of French, the glorious book-lined interior speaks volumes.
The green heart of Paris
Jardin du Luxembourg
Jardin du Luxembourg is an oasis to escape the bustle of the city. Once designed as the private gardens of the even more impressive and monumental Palais du Luxembourg, the gardens have been open to the public since the 19th century. During the week, the park is a sought-after spot for Sorbonne students. On weekends, sports fans, couples in love and families come here to relax and enjoy the fresh air.
Premier Photo / Shutterstock.com
Take a stroll in ‘le Luco’ to admire the park’s 106 statues. Until a few years ago there was even a Statue of Liberty that served as the scale model for its big sister in New York. However, after multiple acts of vandalism the statue has been moved to the Musée d’Orsay, our next stop.
nikolpetr / Shutterstock.com
Gimas / Shutterstock.com
World-renowned artists
Musée d’Orsay
The right bank may have the Louvre, but the left bank has the Musée d’Orsay. Van Gogh, Gauguin, Renoir, Degas, Mondriaan, Munch, Monet, Manet… The walls are adorned with the most outstanding works of art history. An even bigger draw may be the museum itself: magnificently housed under the glass domes of a former railway station. It takes quite the building to compete with the magnificent sculptures of Auguste Rodin, creator of ‘The Thinker’.
nikolpetr / Shutterstock.com
Looking for more art or prefer a more modestly sized museum? France’s most famous sculptor has his own museum just a few blocks south, the Musée Rodin, housed in the hotel that for many years served as his home.
photo.ua / Shutterstock.com
Culinary delights
Hotel Relais Saint Germain
Starting to feel a bit peckish? Continue on to the Hotel Relais Saint Germain for a culinary conclusion to our discovery tour of Rive Gauche. The hidden bistro – Le Comptoir – isn’t known for its trendy decor or spacious interior. But what it lacks in style and size is more than compensated by the food. Chef Yves Camdeborde serves seemingly simple but delectable bistro classics, such as asparagus with ham, shrimp bisque and grilled salmon sandwiches.
Chef Yves Camdeborde serves seemingly simple but delectable bistro classics
The lunch specials are on a first-come, first-served basis and even the notoriously picky Parisians will line up for hours on weekends. Tables for the more elegant dinner menu are booked months ahead of time. Not able to snag a reservation? Then make your way to the bar to sample the excellent wines and delicious finger foods.
