I drive by the Sonderkop watering hole at seven in the morning and spot hundreds of animals. Zebras, oryxes, giraffes, springboks and ostriches flock here at dawn to drink water. Suddenly a herd of elephants looms at the horizon. They slowly lumber towards me, kicking up huge dust clouds, as the other animals scamper out of the way. It feels like being in an episode of BBC's Planet Earth, only the voice of David Attenborough is missing. Later I spot two lions, tucked away in the yellow savanna grass. At night, the black rhinos come out. But alas, no sight of the elusive leopard!